You’ve almost certainly heard of the Pyramids in Egypt and the Great Wall of China. Both are amazing archaelogical wonders that are absolutely worth visiting. But have you heard of Teotihuacan in Mexico?
If not, keep reading, as this much less well known destination is just as spectacular and a whole lot closer to home for those of us in North America!
Historical Perspective
The origins of Teotihuacan remain shrouded in mystery, though some scholars speculate it may have been founded by the Toltecs, predecessors of the Aztecs. Established around 100 BC, the city reached its zenith several centuries later, boasting a population exceeding 100,000—ranking it among the world’s largest urban centers of its time. Teotihuacan flourished until approximately 500-600 AD, when it experienced a period of severe conflict and decline.
Believed to have been both an intellectual and spiritual hub, Teotihuacan was known as “the place where men became gods.” This moniker stemmed from the knowledge imparted to those admitted into the city’s inner sanctums. Initiates studied crucial disciplines such as astronomy and chemistry, gaining the ability to predict and influence natural phenomena. This knowledge conferred immense power, elevating its bearers to positions of leadership within their communities.
Now, envision a vast plaza, spanning over 1,000 feet on each side, teeming with 100,000 people who have come vying to obtain that knowledge and venerate those who already have it. The ground beneath their feet is paved with obsidian, its jet-black surface gleaming like a mirror. Before the crowd rises a vibrantly painted pyramid, atop which stands a figure adorned in the intricate regalia of Quetzalcoatl, the feathered serpent deity. Brilliant quetzal birds perch throughout the scene, their iridescent plumage adding splashes of color. What an awe-inspiring spectacle Teotihuacan must have been at its peak!
Teotihuacan Today
Though the obsidian floors have long since vanished and the once-vibrant paint has faded, the grandeur of Teotihuacan endures. This vast archaeological site, spanning an impressive 8 square miles, continues to captivate visitors and researchers alike. While extensive excavation and reconstruction have already taken place, ongoing work promises to unveil more secrets in the years to come.
The heart of the Teotihuacan experience is a 1.5-mile walk along the Avenue of the Dead. This ancient thoroughfare begins near a massive square housing the temple of Quetzalcoatl and the temple of the jaguar.
Intriguingly, the temple of the jaguar was constructed directly in front of the temple of Quetzalcoatl, effectively obscuring it. This architectural choice reflects a major shift in the city’s religious and political landscape, as worship of the Jaguar (a symbol of the military) superseded the cult of Quetzalcoatl.
As you progress along the Avenue you’ll encounter numerous smaller temples and structures. You’ll also pass by and through ancient water reservoirs, once crucial for maintaining the flow of the local river during the dry season. Eventually, you’ll arrive at the Pyramid of the Sun. This imposing structure dominates the landscape while paradoxically blending with its surroundings. Its massive form seems to echo the volcanic mountains looming in the background, creating a harmonious yet breathtaking vista.
While many archaeological sites would conclude their tour at such a monumental structure, Teotihuacan has more wonders in store. The remainder of the Avenue of the Dead features more temples and platforms and culminates at the Pyramid of the Moon.
The scale and complexity of this ancient city are astounding and truly offer a glimpse into the sophistication of Mesoamerican culture that thrived long before the arrival of the Europeans.
Our Experience
Our journey to Teotihuacan began in downtown Mexico City, about an hour’s drive from the ancient site. We chose an early morning tour booked through Viator, a decision that proved excellent in terms of convenience and overall experience.
The tour bus collected the five of us (ages: 8-71) from our apartment at 6:15 AM, then picked up another couple nearby. Visiting on a Monday, we lucked out with a small group of just seven people on a mini-bus designed for 17.
As we left Mexico City, our guide outlined the day’s itinerary. We made a brief stop at a gas station for water and snacks before arriving at Teotihuacan right as it opened at 8 AM. We were among the first to enter, greeted by perfect morning weather and an almost empty Avenue of the Dead. By 11:30 AM, when we were leaving, the sun had intensified considerably. I strongly recommend bringing a hat, water, and sunscreen, especially considering the high UV index at over 7,000 feet elevation.
Our mid-June visit coincided with the low season. Our guide mentioned that during peak times, the site can be 10-15 times busier, offering a very different atmosphere from the quiet and subdued crowds we experienced.
Our guide’s passion for Teotihuacan’s history shone through his expert storytelling. He shared fascinating insights about the site and its people. Two of my favorites were:
- The use of obsidian as a solar filter for astronomical observations. Our guide demonstrated this with a small obsidian disc, revealing how the ancient Teotihuacanos studied the heavens 2,000 years ago. Looking through this seemingly opaque disc revealed the outline of the sun, similar to modern day solar eclipse glasses.
- The architectural design of the site to mimic the call of the quetzal bird, an important symbol for the city. A simple clap in front of the pyramids on the square of Quetzalcoatl produced an echo resembling the bird’s call.
After three hours exploring Teotihuacan, we visited a handicraft store. Here, we witnessed demonstrations of agave silk production and dying, obsidian carving, and enjoyed a tasting of traditional beverages. While clearly aimed at encouraging souvenir purchases, the experience was enjoyable and not overly pushy.
The tour concluded with a personalized drop-off back in Mexico City. Given our small group size, they accommodated our request to be left at Taquería El Califa de León, the world’s only Michelin-starred taco stand – a fitting end to an exceptional day!
Final Thoughts
Teotihuacan stands out as an extraordinary archaeological site, ranking among the most impressive I’ve encountered globally. For visitors to Mexico City, I consider it an absolute must-see destination. To fully appreciate its magnificence, I strongly recommend engaging a guide. The narratives and insights provided by our guide breathed life into the ancient stones, offering a depth of understanding and appreciation that would have been impossible to achieve on our own.
